Japanese Skincare Routine Order: What Goes First, and How to Read the Bottles
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You’ve bought a few Japanese skincare bottles, and now they’re lined up on your bathroom shelf: 化粧水, 乳液, 美容液… But which one goes first? And what’s the difference between a “lotion” and a “milk”?
This guide walks you through the usual Japanese skincare order for morning and night, explains what each step is for in plain English, and gives you a cheat sheet for the Japanese words on the bottles. It’s a how-to, not a product roundup. For prices and where to buy, see our Japanese drugstore beauty under ¥2000 guide.
This article is general information, not medical advice. If you have a skin condition, or a product irritates your skin, talk to a dermatologist or pharmacist.
The short answer: the usual order
Kao’s beauty site, supervised by Kao’s beauty research center, lists this standard routine (Kao):
| Morning | Night | |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Face wash (洗顔料) | Cleansing / makeup remover (クレンジング料) |
| 2 | Lotion (化粧水) | Face wash (洗顔料) |
| 3 | Serum (美容液) | Lotion (化粧水) |
| 4 | Milk / emulsion (乳液) | Serum (美容液) |
| 5 | Sunscreen (日やけ止め) | Milk / emulsion (乳液) |
| 6 | Cream (クリーム) |
Kose gives almost the same order: cleansing (night only), face wash, lotion, serum, milk or cream, then sunscreen (morning only) (Kose).
The basic idea is simple: clean first, then moisturize. For the moisturizing steps, Kao says the rule of thumb is to start with the most watery product and gradually layer on the oilier ones (Kao).
Always check the bottle first. Kose notes that if a brand or maker recommends its own order, you should follow that (Kose). More on maker differences below.
How this compares with US advice
The American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) says “the sequence in which you apply your skin care products affects how well the products work” (AAD). Its order is: wash your face, apply any medication or treatment, apply moisturizer and/or sunscreen, then makeup (AAD).
The AAD doesn’t split things into “lotion” and “milk” the way Japanese brands do; it just says “moisturizer.” So you can think of the Japanese lotion, serum, milk and cream steps as a more detailed version of that moisturizer step. In both systems, sunscreen comes at the end of skincare, before makeup.
Step by step
1. Cleansing (クレンジング) — night only
What it does: Kao says cleansing products lift off mainly oil-based makeup and sebum (Kao).
Do you need to wash again afterwards? Kao recommends using a face wash after cleansing, but adds that with some types of cleanser, a separate face wash isn’t needed (Kao). Check your cleanser’s directions.
Example: KOSE Softymo Deep Cleansing Oil (ソフティモ ディープクレンジングオイル), 240mL (KOSE official)
2. Face wash (洗顔料)
What it does: Kao says face wash lifts and rinses away sweat, sebum, dust and dirt in pores. Its tips: lather it up well before putting it on your face, and don’t rub (Kao).
The AAD gives similar advice: use a gentle, non-abrasive cleanser without alcohol, don’t scrub, and limit washing to twice a day and after sweating (AAD).
Example: SENKA Perfect Whip (センカ パーフェクトホイップ), 120g (Fine Today official shop)
3. Lotion (化粧水)
What it does: This is the step that confuses most people abroad. A Japanese “lotion” is not a thick body lotion; it’s a watery liquid, closer to a hydrating toner. Shiseido says 化粧水 adds moisture to the skin and smooths its texture, and is used on clean skin after washing (Shiseido). Kose describes its role as supplying the water skin needs to stay moisturized (Kose).
When: Kao’s skincare guide says lotion is the first thing you use after washing (Kao Skincare Navi).
Two exceptions: – A 化粧液 (keshōeki) combines lotion and milk in one, and is also used as the first step after washing (Kao). – A 導入美容液 / 導入化粧水 (booster serum or booster lotion) goes after washing but before your regular lotion (Kao).
Example: Hada Labo Gokujyun Premium Lotion (肌ラボ 極潤プレミアム ヒアルロン液), 170mL (Rohto official)
4. Serum (美容液)
What it does: Kao says serums deliver a rich amount of beauty ingredients to the outer layer of skin and help condition it, and they go after lotion (Kao). Kao’s skincare guide adds that serums are designed to help add moisture, sometimes tailored to particular areas (Kao Skincare Navi).
Using more than one? Kao suggests putting on the more watery (lighter-feeling) one first (Kao).
Example: Melano CC Medicated Intensive Spot Treatment Serum (メラノCC 薬用しみ集中対策美容液; sold abroad as “Melano CC Vitamin C Essence”), 20mL (Rohto official). Not the Premium version.
5. Milk / emulsion (乳液)
What it does: Shiseido says 乳液 adds oil to lock in moisture, smooths the skin and helps protect it from outside stresses such as dryness. It’s basically used after lotion (Shiseido). Kao says milks and creams form an artificial sebum-like film on the skin’s surface (Kao Skincare Navi).
Example: Hada Labo Gokujyun Hyaluronic Milk (肌ラボ 極潤ヒアルロン乳液), 140mL (Rohto official)
6. Cream (クリーム)
What it does: Kao describes cream as oil-rich, helping prevent water loss and keep skin soft (Kao).
Milk, cream, or both? Kao says you can layer cream after milk, or use it instead of milk. If you use cream in the morning, Kao suggests choosing one with a lighter feel (Kao). Kose also lists “milk or cream” as one step (Kose).
Example: Hada Labo Gokujyun Hyaluronic Cream (肌ラボ 極潤ヒアルロンクリーム), 50g (Rohto official)
7. Sunscreen (日焼け止め / 日やけ止め) — morning only
What it does: Kao says the last step of morning skincare is sunscreen for UV protection, and since UV rays come in even when you’re indoors, it suggests making sunscreen part of your morning routine (Kao). In the AAD’s order, sunscreen comes before makeup (AAD). So put it on at the end of your skincare, before any makeup.
Kao also notes that some milks and creams include daytime UV protection (Kao Skincare Navi). To decode SPF and PA on the label, see our guide to SPF and PA.
Example: Biore UV Aqua Rich Watery Essence (ビオレUV アクアリッチ ウォータリーエッセンス), 70g, SPF50+ / PA++++ (Kao official)
Not every brand uses the same order
The order above is the mainstream one, but makers don’t all agree:
- Albion puts milk first. Albion recommends using its milk (乳液) right after washing, before other skincare, saying this helps the next products blend in smoothly. Albion explains that its milk isn’t meant to form a film but to balance moisture in the skin’s outer layer (Albion). By contrast, Shiseido, Kao and Kose put lotion before milk (Shiseido; Kao; Kose).
- Milk or cream is fine. Kose lists “milk or cream” as one step, and says to follow the brand’s recommended order when it has one (Kose).
- Double cleansing depends on the cleanser. Kao recommends a face wash after cleansing, but says some cleansers don’t need a separate face wash (Kao).
Bottom line: the general order is a good starting point, but the directions on your product come first.
How to read the Japanese words on the bottles
Here’s a general reading guide to words you’re likely to see on skincare bottles. The English meanings are rough equivalents; products differ, so read the full label too.
| Japanese | Reading | English |
|---|---|---|
| クレンジング（料） | kurenjingu (ryō) | Makeup remover / cleanser |
| クレンジングオイル | kurenjingu oiru | Cleansing oil |
| 洗顔料 | senganryō | Face wash |
| 洗顔フォーム | sengan fōmu | Foaming face wash |
| 化粧水 | keshōsui | Lotion (hydrating toner) |
| 柔軟化粧水 | jūnan keshōsui | Softening lotion |
| 収れん化粧水 | shūren keshōsui | Astringent lotion / toner |
| 拭き取り化粧水 | fukitori keshōsui | Wipe-off lotion / toner |
| 導入美容液 | dōnyū biyōeki | Booster serum (used before lotion) |
| 美容液 | biyōeki | Serum / essence |
| 化粧液 | keshōeki | Lotion and milk in one |
| 乳液 | nyūeki | Milk / emulsion |
| クリーム | kurīmu | Cream |
| 日焼け止め / 日やけ止め | hiyakedome | Sunscreen |
| 医薬部外品 | iyaku-bugaihin | Quasi-drug (a Japanese category between cosmetics and medicine) |
Tip: 水 (water) in 化粧水 hints at a watery texture, and 乳 (milk) in 乳液 hints at a milky one. That matches the “watery first, oilier later” rule of thumb.
FAQ
Is Japanese “lotion” the same as toner? It’s similar to a hydrating toner. Kose describes 化粧水 as supplying water to the skin (Kose), and Kao says it’s the first product after washing (Kao Skincare Navi).
Do I need both milk and cream? Not necessarily. Kao says cream can go on top of milk or replace it (Kao), and Kose lists “milk or cream” (Kose).
Where does sunscreen go? At the end of your morning skincare, before makeup (Kao; AAD).
Why does my milk say to use it first? Some brands, such as Albion, recommend milk right after washing (Albion). Follow the maker’s directions (Kose).
Do I have to double cleanse? Kao recommends washing after cleansing, but some cleansers don’t need it (Kao). Check the cleanser’s label.
Final thoughts
The Japanese routine looks long, but the logic is easy: clean first, then go from watery to oily, and finish the morning with sunscreen before makeup. Learn a handful of words like 化粧水, 美容液, 乳液 and クリーム, and you’ll know where each bottle goes. When in doubt, the directions on the product win.
Wondering what makes Japanese drugstore skincare worth trying? Read Why choose Japanese skincare?
Sources
- Kao, Kao Beauty Brands Play Park (skincare order): https://webmember.kao-kirei.com/jp/kbbplaypark/recipe/playparkhenshubu-041/
- Kao, Skincare Navi (basic skincare): https://www.kao.com/jp/skincare/care/basic-05/
- Kose, skincare order: https://www.kose.co.jp/kose/skin_care/skincare137.html
- Shiseido, lotion and milk: https://www.shiseido.co.jp/sw/beautyinfo/sp/DB009195/
- Albion, milk-first skincare: https://albion.co.jp/site/p/albion_seasonal_milk.aspx
- American Academy of Dermatology, skin care order: https://www.aad.org/public/everyday-care/skin-care-basics/care/apply-skin-care-certain-order
- American Academy of Dermatology, Face washing 101: https://www.aad.org/public/everyday-care/skin-care-basics/care/face-washing-101
